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India Has No 'Curry'
In India, across its diverse regions, one finds hundreds of distinct spice-based dishes, including Korma, Vindaloo, Dopiaza, and Masala. However, the word 'curry' itself is seldom used by Indians. The term's etymology is debated, possibly stemming from the Tamil word 'kari,' meaning 'sauce' or 'relish,' or the Kannada word 'karil,' referring to 'pepper.' Regardless of its precise linguistic root, 'curry' was ultimately an external designation, a collective term used by the British to encompass the vast array of Indian culinary traditions.
The Birth of 'Curry Powder' in 18th Century Britain
In the 1780s, British soldiers and colonial administrators stationed in British India, longing for the flavors of Indian cuisine, began bringing back blends of spices—such as turmeric, coriander, cumin, and pepper—in powdered form to Britain. In 1810, the company Crosse & Blackwell launched the first commercial curry powder in London. The addition of this powder to traditional British beef stews marked the origin of what would become known as 'British curry.'
Curry in the Meiji Japanese Navy
During the Meiji era, Japan modeled its naval system after that of the British. Curry, a staple aboard British warships, was adopted by the Imperial Japanese Navy as a nutritionally balanced meal and became one of its standard menu items. The tradition of serving curry every Friday continues to this day within the Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force. From the navy, curry spread into Japanese households, and by 1923, 'curry rice' had become established as a standard home-cooked meal across the nation.
Spices Through Chinese Characters
The Chinese character for 'fragrance,' 香 (xiang in Mandarin, hyang in Korean), is composed of 禾 (he, meaning 'grain' or 'rice plant') and 日 (ri, meaning 'sun' or 'day'). This combination evokes the image of rice ripening under the sun, producing a fragrant aroma. Similarly, the yellow hue of Indian turmeric mirrors the color of sunlight. Fragrance shapes food, and food, in turn, shapes culture. The journey of curry—from India to Britain, then to Japan, and finally to Korea—is metaphorically encapsulated within this single character, representing the profound impact of aroma on culinary and cultural evolution.
