All Origins Everyday Object Past

The Zipper Failed for 100 Years

Invented in 1851, only mainstream in jeans by 1923

2026-05-06 · ONGO
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TL;DR
Howe patented the first zipper in 1851 — but it broke constantly and barely sold for 70 years. In 1913, Gideon Sundback finalized the modern design. By 1923 it had reached US military boots and workwear. The name "Zipper" came from a 1925 BF Goodrich boot ad — onomatopoeia for the "zip!" sound.
⏱ About 2 min read · 4 sections

1851: An Invention Prone to Failure

In 1851, Elias Howe, a name synonymous with the invention of the sewing machine, filed a patent for what he called the "Automatic Continuous Clothing Closure." Despite its ambitious name, the device suffered from a rudimentary design that rendered it largely ineffective. It struggled to perform its intended function, often failing to secure garments reliably. Howe, perhaps recognizing its flaws or simply prioritizing his other inventions, never moved to commercialize it. Consequently, this early attempt at a continuous fastener languished in obscurity, remaining an overlooked invention for close to seven decades.

1913: A Swedish Immigrant's Completion

The modern zipper began to take shape in 1913, thanks to Gideon Sundback, a Swedish engineer who had immigrated to the United States. He perfected the "Hookless No.2," which featured the now-familiar structure of precisely interlocking teeth. This design marked a significant improvement over previous attempts, offering a reliable and continuous fastening mechanism. However, even with this breakthrough, the device was not yet adopted for clothing. Its initial applications were limited to items such as tobacco pouches, money purses, and tents, where its utility was recognized for securing openings.

The Zipper Meets Jeans

The zipper's journey into mainstream use accelerated in the 1920s. In 1923, it was adopted for US military flight suits and navy boots, demonstrating its robustness and practicality in demanding environments. A pivotal moment arrived in 1925 when BF Goodrich prominently featured "Zipper Boots" in its advertising campaigns for rubber footwear. This marketing push was instrumental in popularizing the term "Zipper," which quickly entered everyday vocabulary. Its true breakthrough into the fashion world, however, came in 1934, when the influential fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli incorporated zippers into her dress designs, finally introducing the fastener to the broader apparel market.

Speed Through Hanja

The Hanja character for "speed," 速 (sok), offers a fascinating linguistic insight into the zipper's success. It is composed of 辶 (gil), meaning "road" or "to go," and 束 (sok), meaning "to bind" or "to bundle." Together, they convey the meaning of "binding and going on a road," or simply "fast." This character is fundamental to words like 신속 (swiftness), 속도 (speed), and 고속 (high speed). It perfectly encapsulates the moment when the zipper, after nearly 70 years of slow development and limited adoption, finally demonstrated its core essence of "binding quickly" to the market, fulfilling the promise inherent in its very name.

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